Changing a wheel with a jack: what to watch out for

Where and how do I secure the car before lifting it?

On level, firm ground, never on a slope or cobblestones, says TÜV Thüringen, otherwise the jack can tilt or slip. The ADAC gives the order: apply the handbrake, engage first gear or move the selector to P, then loosen the wheel bolts by about a quarter turn while the wheel is still on the ground. Only then does the jack come into play.

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Where do I place the jack?

Only at the lifting point on the underbody specified by the manufacturer, which the owner's manual and usually a marking on the sill show, according to the ADAC and TÜV NORD. The on-board jack from the boot is, per the ADAC, meant for emergencies only, not for the seasonal change. And never lie under the vehicle unless it is additionally secured with axle stands.

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In what order do I change the wheel?

Loosen on the ground, lift, remove the wheel, clean the contact surface, fit the new wheel hand-tight, lower until the tyre just touches the ground, and only then tighten crosswise to the prescribed torque. That is how the ADAC step-by-step guide describes it; TÜV NORD adds that the wheel bolts are also worked crosswise when loosening.

1. Park the car on level, firm ground, apply the handbrake, engage first gear or P
2. Remove the hub cap and loosen the wheel bolts by about a quarter turn while the wheel is still on the ground
3. Place the jack at the designated lifting point and raise the car until the wheel is clear
4. Unscrew the wheel bolts completely and take the wheel off; alloy wheels often sit tight on the hub, per the ADAC
5. Clean the wheel contact surface with a wire brush and take a look at the brake disc and pads
6. Fit the new wheel, mind the rotation direction and tighten all bolts hand-tight with the wheel brace
7. Lower the car until the tyre just rests on the ground
8. Tighten the wheel bolts crosswise with the torque wrench to the prescribed torque
9. Mark the removed wheels with chalk on the tread, for example FR for front right

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To what torque do I tighten the wheel bolts?

To the value the manufacturer specifies in the owner's manual, and always with a torque wrench, according to the ADAC and TÜV NORD. There is no one-size-fits-all figure; spare wheels often have their own tightening torques, per the ADAC. Too tight stresses the material, too loose and the wheel can come off while driving, warns TÜV Thüringen. With alloy wheels this matters most, says the ADAC.

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After how many kilometres do I re-tighten the wheel bolts?

After about 50 kilometres, per the ADAC; TÜV NORD and TÜV Thüringen say 50 to 100 kilometres. Then check the bolts with the torque wrench rather than simply tightening harder. After a workshop change, the workshop is liable for the bolts being tight, per the ADAC (Munich Higher Regional Court, case 7 U 2338/20); a note on the invoice does not shift responsibility to the customer.

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Change the wheels myself or go to a workshop?

Doing it yourself pays off with a sturdy jack, axle stand, wheel brace, wire brush and torque wrench, per the ADAC's tool list. Without a torque wrench or a level parking spot, the workshop is the safe choice. Before the change, check tread depth, age and damage; the better tyres belong on the rear axle according to TÜV Thüringen, and wheels are swapped axle by axle only, never diagonally.

To the car-buying checklist: check tyres and brakes

What does a wheel change cost at a workshop?

From 20 euros per change without storage, per TÜV NORD; storing the second set of wheels comes on top. TÜV Thüringen speaks of moderate costs for fitting and storage. In return the workshop handles torque and checks, and per the ADAC it is liable for the wheels being tight. If you change them yourself, you pay once for the tools.

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